Quick food Qs!

Hi... couple questions!!!

-How long do you need to boil an egg for them to be able to eat the shell?
-can they eat egg?
-Protein/calcium: i keep gettin' 'em confused! D= Which is to stop them from eating each other? (protein, right?) What's the benefit of each? is one more important?

 

I would keep both around. (Meaning pro. and cal.). THey might eat each other for the exo ( calcium) or the meat ( protein).

 

oh... okay! thanks!!!

 

Your hermit crabs can eat egg. . .

 

If you provide enough protein AND calcium, than none of your hermit crabs will become cannibals during molting periods. . .

 

okay, thanks! i just wasn't sure

 

good! i think i have it covered... calcium enriched sand.... eggshells... bananas and such...

 

You're welcome! Just private message me if you have any more questions!

 

Wait, you're using a calcium-enriched sand? Those are not safe for molting crabs - they harden into rock-hard stuff around the molting crab, which then can't escape when it's ready to resurface. You can use a 100% coconut fiber substrate or an aquarium sand or even playground sand, but nothing that says it's "calcium enriched" or "provides calcium for your animal's diet." You can, however, offer the calcium enriched sand in their food bowl at night so they get some calcium that way.

 

Ahh, that's not good D= I'll see what i can do, then....

 

If you're strapped for cash, playsand is the cheapest option ($5 for a 50 pound bag), but I personally am loving my Eco Earth, even if it is keeping my humidity at astronomical levels when the tank's closed.

Interesting tidbit - I'm using a 30g tank with just shy of 4 bricks of EE in it (upper levels and main substrate). I have a reptile combination hood that has a daytime full-spectrum fluorescent bulb during daylight hours and a moon glow bulb at night. Those two are switched (one of the reptile power strip/timer combination thingies; they're amazing!) so that one is always on. If I have the plexiglass over the front part of the tank (the part not covered by the hood), the humidity can get up above 90% easily. I open the tank whenever I'm home, trying to get the humidity down a bit, but to no avail. Even with my heat bulb on (a 60w fluorescent heating bulb, on a thermostat to turn on whenever the substrate gets below 72), the humidity with the plexi on is 87-89%. With the plexi off, it drops back into the 70s, but jumps when the plexi is returned. I really don't want to drill a hole in the plexi, but I've already propped the hood up with aquarium tubing all around for airflow on top of the vents on the side of the hood and the space between the hood and plexi...turning on the ceiling fan in their room helps, but seriously...it's over 90 every morning when I wake up (my guys climb at night; I can't take off the plexi overnight).

Any ideas that won't let my tiny and small and medium crabs escape?

 

The holes do work. I've had to do mine like that.

 

I have my plexi laying on top of my screen cover that is a tight fit (Thanks to the net and stuff drapping over the side) so if the humidity gets too high I just slide the plexi over so some air can get in. I ALSO have about 7 holes drilled in the plexi but after putting fresh moss in the pit or something it can get pretty high still so i have to slide it over a bit.
It has been working out really well, it took a while but I am not even using a heat lamp anymore just 2 UTH and the covers, I use a coil energy light during the day (no heat) I can rest it right on top of the plexi and it wont melt, just to keep their light cycle straight on dreary winter days.