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Heeeeeelp!

Discussion in 'Emergency Care - 911.' started by dailyseekr, Jul 30, 2007.

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  1. dailyseekr

    dailyseekr Hi, I'm New Here!

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    Hi, my name is Tara and I'm am the anxious provider for 12 little friends. My two oldest sons went to the beach this weekend and brought them home. I am COMPLETELY ignorant to their needs. I would be very appreciative (and I'm sure they would be as well) if somebody could give me a "quick fix" on how to care for them until I can return them to their rightful abode. Thanks for any help
     
  2. msdiamonddawg

    msdiamonddawg "Third Molt In Progress"

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    Hi Tara,

    Yikes! Here is a basic care checklist of crabs need. Hope it helps some and good luck!
    Basic Hermit Crab Care Checklist

    Hermit crabs are a fun, fascinating exotic pet. Hermit crabs will provide endless amusement, from feeler wars to acrobatic climbing, hole digging, staring at you with those beady eyes, and general crabitat mayhem. Hermit crabs breathe through modified gills, and require that their gills be moist at all times. Therefore, the humidity of the crab tank needs to be kept high or they will slowly suffocate. Below 65% is dangerous (but above 85% promotes mold). Hermit crabs come from tropical regions, and need to stay warm. If the temperature falls below 70 degrees, they become dormant. Hermit crabs have soft, delicate abdomens, and protect them by wearing discarded shells. Hermit crabs spend much of their lives on ocean beaches, and require salt water in addition to fresh water. Finally, hermit crabs grow by molting – the process of shedding their exoskeleton and growing a new one. They require a deep, moist substrate they can bury in, a good calcium source, and high humidity to survive this difficult process.

    The official Hermit Crab Association recommends the following supplies (easily found at pet stores and on-line) in order to ensure the health, happiness, and longevity of your hermit crabs:

    ü A friend! Hermit crabs are social and will get lonely without a friend or two or ten.
    ü Glass aquarium or terrarium (plastic/wire cages are too small and don’t hold in warmth and humidity).
    ü Glass or plexi-glass cover for the aquarium, or a mesh cover with 90% of it covered with saran wrap to keep in humidity.
    ü Humidity gauge (hygrometer) to make sure the tank stays around 70-80% relative humidity.
    ü Temperature gauge (thermometer) to make sure the tank stays around 75-85 degrees F.
    ü Low-wattage (15-25W) incandescent moon- or night-glow bulbs or under-tank heater for heat.
    ü Playsand or compressed coconut fiber as a substrate, at least twice as deep as your largest crab, and kept moist. Crabs need to bury themselves to molt and relieve stress, and also for fun.
    ü Extra shells – at least 2 of each size needed by your crabs, with round or oval openings the same size as the big pincher – to allow them to grow up, have fun shell-shopping, and to prevent shell fights.
    ü Food dish filled with ethoxyquin-free/copper sulfate-free commercial crab food, fresh or dried fruits and veggies, whole grain foods, cooked egg, meat, and fish, and dried shrimp/plankton (no dairy).
    ü Crushed cuttlebone or calcium-powder sprinkled in the food as a calcium supplement.
    ü Freshwater bowl with a sponge (so smaller crabs don’t drown).
    ü Tap water conditioner that removes chlorine, chloramines, and heavy metals.
    ü Saltwater bowl with a sponge (to maintain the proper salinity of their internal and shell water).
    ü Marine salt found with saltwater aquarium supplies (do not use table salt; the iodine in it is harmful to crabs). Additionally, the saltwater must also be dechlorinated.
    ü Climbing toys, such as cholla wood, cork bark, coral, driftwood, and wicker baskets.
    ü Hiding shelters such as half-logs, caves, and coco-huts (they need a place to feel safe and relieve stress).
    ü Foliage such as fake plants or true terrarium moss (not Spanish/decorative moss).
     
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